Sunday, February 1, 2015
We are in Lajitas, Texas,
and this is the view from my window:
Lajitas is between Big Bend
National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park on the Rio Grande River.
We got up Saturday morning
to temperatures in the 50’s and gorgeous clear blue skies. The plan was to drive east to the town of
Marathon and then south to the Big Bend National Park. The entire route was labeled as a scenic
byway on the map.
Which was great for about 20
miles, when we drove into a dense fog. I
say fog, but I think it was really a cloud.
We were at 4400 feet and climbing slightly. The fog was very thick and we slowed way
down. We made it safely to Marathon and
stopped for lunch. Urban spoon helped us
find a good place, Johnny B’s. Apparently this is where the local ranchers
come in for lunch. There were about 8
there. It was a tiny place, but the
burgers were good, and Steve said the milkshake was, too. I think the waitress made 3 for the ranchers,
who were leaving, before she made Steve’s for the road.
The fog had lifted a bit by
the time lunch was over and we found the turnoff for the road to Big Bend
National Park. I don’t want to say this
is out in the boonies, but it is. From
Marathon to park headquarters is 43 miles.
We drive through desert grasslands.
I think we saw about 6 cows and two horses in 43 miles. Ranching has got to be a hard life.
The clouds still covered the
tops of the mountains we could see.
We saw a few ranches, but
mostly what you see is the ranch gate and the dirt driveway, which disappears
over a hill or into a valley. In other
parts of Texas, the ranch gates vary from very basic to very elaborate. Out here, they are very basic,
utilitarian. Most do have the ranch
name, but mostly they don’t even have mailboxes. I assume they pick up their mail at the post
office when they are in town.
We finally get to the
entrance gate and flash our senior pass for entry. (If you are over 62, you can buy a life time
pass to the national parks for $10. Best
bargain ever.) We still have miles to go
to get to the visitor center.
The park covers 801,163
acres. The geology, climate and
landscape varies depending on where you are in the park. 118 miles of the Rio Grande form the southern
border of the park. The lowest part of
the park is at the Rio Grande, 1800 ft. above sea level. The highest peak is 7832 ft. (Numbers from Wikipedia.)
Parts of the park were
overgrazed before it was parkland and changed from grasslands to desert. One of the places to stop was the grave of a
pioneer. Nina Hannold moved here by
covered wagon in 1908 and she and her husband ranched here. Her husband also taught school 8 miles away,
so much of the ranching fell on Nina.
She died during her fourth pregnancy and asked to be buried overlooking
the spring where she used to sit under the cottonwoods with her children. Both the spring and the cottonwoods are gone.
We did
finally reach park headquarters and picked up maps and information to help us
plan our next few day. We were now in
the mountains and beautiful views met us in every direction. We needed to head west to our campsite for
the night.
There are
several campgrounds in Big Bend NP, even one with full hookups. But we also wanted to tour Big Bend Ranch
State Park a few miles away, so Steve booked us into the Maverick RV
park. No trees, but a spectacular view
and we can get both cell phone and satellite.
So we’re watching the Super Bowl as I’m typing this.
Today got
off to a late start, as we needed to get more propane for the trailer. While it’s much warmer here than elsewhere in
the country, we still have been using the furnace at night. And since we wanted to watch the Super Bowl,
we decided we would do the river drive along the Rio Grande in Big Bend Ranch
State Park.
I have 58
photos on my phone from that drive.
Picking a few to show you is hard.
Steve said this is rated one of the 50 best drives by National
Geographic and I believe it.
The first surprise
is the river. The Rio Grande is not
Grande. The Wabash is a bigger river, at
least in this area. And right now, it’s
not very deep. You can tell that the
water level is low. We saw a few cattle
on the Mexican side of the river shortly after we left town, but since there
was a small ranch on this side, I suspect the cattle had waded across. There’s a fine of up to $5000 for crossing
into Mexico improperly, but I expect that the ranchers are allowed to round up
their cattle.
The rest of
the drive held a few surprises, along with gorgeous scenery. We came across a movie set sitting right on
the river:
It was built for a western
in 1985 called “Uphill All The Way” and has been used several times since. The buildings are adobe, which is still used
a lot.
There are several camping
areas along the road. These are
campsites with usually a picnic table and grill, period. And most cannot be seen from the road and you
should have four wheel drive to get to them.
Roger D., this one’s for you. The
Rio Grande is behind the line of trees behind the picnic shelter.
Most campsites or picnic
areas have a shelter in Texas. In the
summer, it’s absolutely necessary if you are out for any period of time. The shelters at the campsites were simple and
rustic, but one picnic area had unique shelters.
There was a picnic table
under each teepee and a grill next to each one.
I’m going to close with some
shots from the road. Enjoy:
More later.
Deb
